Rolex is introducing a complete calendar model for the first time in a long while. The new timepiece draws inspiration from the vintage Rolex Ref. 8171, known as the “Padellone.”
Introduced in 1949, the Ref. 8171 was an unusual model even for replica Rolex at the time; it did not feature the brand’s signature Oyster case, and—departing from Rolex’s tendency to limit complications to the day-date and chronograph—it was a complete calendar model that also included a moon phase display. With a diameter of 38mm, which was considered very large for that era, the Ref. 8171 earned the nickname “Padellone,” the Italian word for a large frying pan.
The revival of the “Padellone” had been anticipated for some time. On April 9, 2025, Rolex filed patent EP4632499A1, which detailed a streamlined annual calendar mechanism capable of instantaneously switching the date, month, and day without any lag. Based on this patent, enthusiasts speculated that Rolex was developing a new annual or complete calendar model—a prediction that has now materialized with the launch of this new product.
The Perpetual 1908 follows the design language of the 1908 collection introduced in 2023. Like the 1908, it features an open-worked hour hand and a pencil-shaped minute hand. The applied Arabic numerals at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions, along with the applied baton markers for the remaining hours, also present a familiar look. The Rolex crown symbol takes the place of the 12 o’clock marker. The dial surface features a grained finish that accentuates its textured, granular appearance.
The “Complete Calendar” features elements that create a more three-dimensional appearance than the 1908 model. These include the day and month displays at the 12 o’clock position, a date track with a dual-layer structure that adds depth to the dial, and a central blue hand that indicates the current date along that track. The moon phase display at 6 o’clock features a blue enamel background, with the full moon rendered in white meteorite and the crescent moon in dark blue PVD-coated meteorite. The moon phase mechanism of the Perpetual Padellone takes 29.53 days to complete a full cycle. This figure is closer to the moon’s average synodic month (approximately 29.530588 days) than the standard moon phase (29.5 days). Consequently, while a standard moon phase mechanism drifts by one day every two years and eight months, the Perpetual Padellone’s moon phase deviates by only one day every 137 years—delivering accuracy approximately 52 times greater. Regarding dial colors, the platinum version comes in ice blue, while the Everose gold version features a white dial.
The case measures 39mm in diameter and 12.2mm in thickness; compared to the Ref. 8171, the diameter has increased by 1mm, while the thickness has been reduced by approximately 0.8mm. Aligning with the “1908” family aesthetic, the design incorporates fluted detailing beneath the domed bezel. Correctors for adjusting the annual calendar and moon phase are positioned on the polished case middle. The case is available in either platinum or Everose gold.
The movement is Rolex’s in-house automatic Calibre 7190, featuring a power reserve of approximately 66 hours. According to Rolex, this movement is an evolution of the Land-Dweller’s Calibre 7135. It retains the key advantages of its predecessor, including the Chronergy escapement (which offers superior energy efficiency compared to the Swiss lever escapement), the antimagnetic Syloxi hairspring, a silicon escape wheel and impulse rocker, and a high frequency of 5 Hz. The finished replica watches achieves a daily precision of -2/+2 seconds, meeting Rolex’s “Superlative Chronometer” standards, which are stricter than COSC certification requirements. Notably, starting this year, Rolex has further reinforced its certification process by introducing new testing criteria regarding antimagnetism, sustainability, and durability.
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